Showing posts with label olympus. Show all posts
Showing posts with label olympus. Show all posts

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

My Thoughts on "Which Camera Should I Buy?"

Greetings good people of the internet. I want to share my thoughts of a very popular questions that I get a lot and I'm sure you also get too from people around you. What I'm about to share is just an opinion and must not be treated as an exact guideline, although it really fits into my context of camera buying in this ultra modern age of camera technology (November 2015).
               

Camera nowadays

In these days of #selfie, #wefie, #foodporn, #nofilter, #ootd, #tbt, and #yolo, I often time ask myself: what is the significance of having a dedicated camera for a person these days? What is the real meaning of photography for a regular person these days? What's the value of the photographs when everyone can take a picture?

One thing that I'm sure is that consumer point-and-shoot camera's days are numbered. My Sony Xperia phone has the 1/2.3 sensor in it that is the same with what you will get on many consumer pocket camera and it also has the capability to process the picture properly with little noise and decent sharpness while maintaining good color and dynamic range.



Heck, I can even Lightroom the poo out of my phone pictures and make it look so much better while I struggled with my previously owned Canon Powershot G15 to get a decent post processing result. So, as you see, it is quite pointless these days for people to buy consumer camera when their phone takes picture with equal quality.

With that in mind, I can only imagine that photography is going to be much easier, more portable, more instant, more share-able, and more accessible to even more people in the future. And even today, that trend is very apparent and it is happening right at this very second with the help of social media, apps, yada yada yada.

In short, it's safe to say that most people today who want to start "serious photography" are most of the time coming as smartphone camera shooters. Which I think isn't too different from point-and-shoot shooters; they only know how to point, and shoot the camera/phone.
                  

Motivation

When those people who were previously a smartphone or point-and-shoot shooters want to start "serious photography", I do question a lot of things. I must know what the motivations are for that person to start photography, and most of the time many people will say "I just want a nice, big, professional camera with lenses that takes great pictures. Which one is better, Canon or Nikon?" 

While there is nothing wrong with that statement, unfortunately only a very few times I got people who said to me that they know what they want to photograph and they want to commit seriously in their own way to learn about photography before jumping into a proper camera.

Some people will want to use photography as a way to get more income. They will want to make money with taking pictures professionally, and they want to have the best bang for the buck camera that they can get with the best possible image quality for the money. And that's when spending a good chunk of money for a nice camera with lenses and accessories makes a lot of sense. They specifically know what they want to produce with the image, and that makes it a lot easier to suggest a specific camera system that will suit them.

But others are doing photography just for a hobby. They just want to have a nice camera that can take good image during vacation that could do more than what their cellphones camera can do. They demand high quality image in a more portable package and it should be able to deliver good images in many different situation. They want a step up from a phone-camera or a point-and-shoot camera. And that's the majority of the crowd that I'm encountering right now, including myself.
           

Enough, let's dive into the options

As of today, there are some major camera system options that you can choose in the market. But I will simplify it into three major system for now: DSLRs, Mirrorless Cameras, and High-End Compact Cameras.
     

DSLRs

They have been around for quite some time, and they're the most established system between the two. A unique characteristic of DSLR is that it features an optical viewfinder that's comprised of some prism-mirror to reflect the image from the lens directly to the eye of the shooter; thus the name Digital Single Lens Reflex.

Two big players of DSLR are Canon and Nikon(and Sony's Alpha A-mount, but they are technically half mirrorless). This is where the opinion gets divided most of the time, Canon vs Nikon. Most will say Canon is better than Nikon, without even knowing why. Some who say Nikon is better than Canon is right, but they also don't know why.

Let me tell you what I know from both Canon and Nikon. As of today, Nikon is better for still pictures compared to Canon. It generally has more megapixel(if it matters to you, it doesn't matter to me), it has better dynamic range, better noise performance, its sensor is also able to extract way more detail compared to Canon's sensor. Canon pictures are always a bit softer compared to Nikon(except for the new 5DSR, which also has the most megapixel compared to Nikon's highest offering), and all of Canon's cameras lack the dynamic range that is important for landscape photography. Some people will say Nikon color looks better than Canon, no that is not true. When you shoot RAW, both can look very similar, and can be adjusted to look like one another.

Where Canon wins is on video. 5D Mark III has the least amount of moire and aliasing compared to Nikon. Also Canon has better selection of lens compared to Nikon, and some of Canon's lenses that are available in Nikon's line-up are actually better performing than what Nikon has. For example, Canon's 70-200mm f2.8 is better when compared to Nikon's, simply due to the lack of focus breathing and the ability to shoot wide open at 200mm without compromising sharpness and detail. Canon also has plenty of options for ultra telephoto lenses that can produce wonderful images.

However, not all Canon's lens are better compared to Nikon. Nikon still has one legendary lens that can beat the other versions of that lens which is 14-24mm f2.8. Canon has similarly spec'ed 16-35mm f2.8, 16-35mm f4, and 11-24mm f4, but not one of them has the same performance and balance when compared to this lens. It's regarded as one of the best ultra wide-angle lens for quite some time, and it still performs wonderfully until today.

So for those reasons, I can personally simplify which one should you choose. If you are a landscape photographer who doesn't always need a telephoto lens, Nikon is probably the best choice for you. Portrait photographer will also benefit from using Nikon's lens as long as you don't need the telephoto lens. If you need to print high-resolution prints or need to extract as much detail out of the camera, Nikon is also a better choice.

If you are a portrait photographer, sport photographer, wildlife photographer, or constantly need to use long telephoto lens, Canon has the advantage. If you take a lot of video, Canon is also a good choice.

Canon shooter, choose 5D Mark III for video, 5DS/5DSR for stills, and 7D Mark II for long lens and the best autofocus performance. Nikon shooter, choose D750 for both video and stills, and D810 for stills. Don't buy anything under or above that, they're practically not worth the price.

           

Mirrorless Cameras

So far, we've only talked about the DSLRs, but actually now some of the DSLRs are slowly dying and they can't keep up with the new, feature-packed mirrorless cameras that's in the market right now with very aggressive pricing.

The thing about mirrorless camera that appeals the most is the relatively smaller overall size of the camera when compared with its same-spec'ed DSLR counterpart, especially when we consider the size of the lenses as well. This is mainly achieved by removing the prism-mirror design that's still present on the DSLR. By removing the prism, the "flange distance" between the lens to the sensor is greatly reduced, allowing for smaller and lighter lenses to be attached to the camera. The only drawback to this is that the camera has to rely to electronic viewfinder or back-screen LCD for composition. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, since EVF technology has gotten so good today, some people actually prefer EVF over OVF.

The main arguments that are always being used to discourage people from buying mirrorless cameras are the slower autofocus and the inferior image quality when compared to DSLR, even the cheap ones. While it may be true for some mirrorless systems, generally they're not always true.

First, the autofocus on the mirrorless camera utilize a "Contrast Detect" system that actually works by trying to lock on the most contrasty focusing on a certain point (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not the most technically knowledgeable when it comes to certain technical stuffs). DSLR utilizes "Phase Detect" autofocus which uses a small phase-sensor embedded under the mirror to "line-up" the images from the lens and the phase sensor to get it in focus (also correct me if I'm wrong). For most of the time, contrast detect autofocus is pretty fast, can be as fast as the phase detect autofocus in single shot. But when it comes to continuous focus, phase detect still has the upper hand until now.

As for image quality, mirrorless now has finally reached full-frame sensor at 42MP in the form of Sony Alpha 7R Mark II. It sits on the same place as the Nikon D810 and Canon 5DSR, and the image quality produced by that camera is as stellar as both Nikon and Canon's offering if not better. So the argument of inferior image quality isn't valid anymore.

Now onto the choices for mirrorless cameras...

CANON
Canon made a mirrorless system starting with EOS M, and now its recently released EOS M3. The original EOS M is handicapped in many ways. The autofocus is way to slow, the controls are fiddly, and the lens selection isn't that much. Even with the EOS M3, the autofocus isn't yet on par with other mirrorless cameras. It uses the APS-C sensor that's commonly found in two digits EOS DSLRs, and it produces the same image quality as them. You can use your regular EF or EF-S mount lenses with EOS M or M3, but they will take a toll at autofocus speed, which on this camera is already slow even with native lenses. I don't recommend this system at all, it's practically the worst performing mirrorless camera system ever! Canon should be ashamed of these issues! I sold my EOS M long time ago, and I regretted that I fell into the marketing seduction of this camera. Such a shame, since the image quality of the Canon APS-C is pretty good for what it's supposed to be.
Points to consider for Canon EOS M system:
- Bad autofocus.
- Bad lens selection.
- Lack of attention from Canon to develop the system.
- The original EOS M is cheap though, so if you need a cheap mirrorless you can buy the original EOS M.
- Nice touchscreen. Good image quality but not as good as the other APS-C offerings from Sony or Fuji.

NIKON
Nikon also made the Nikon 1 series mirrorless cameras which is more established and well-thought compared to Canon's EOS M. It has good selection of lenses and also the cameras are performing decently especially when it comes to features added, burst rate speed, and autofocus. The only drawbacks of this system is the rather-expensive pricing and the small 1-inch sensor that's being employed on the cameras, which doesn't work too well in low light conditions. Many people use this system for wild-life, as the 1 inch sensor can turn their mild tele lens into an ultra long telephoto lens with a very decent autofocus, and at the same time cram the files with so much megapixels that translates into extra details. But this system isn't as popular as other mirrorless systems.
Points to consider for Nikon 1 series:
- Fast autofocus.
- Decent lens and body selection.
- Small size.
- Lots of nice features, some are also waterproof.
- Smaller sensor can't perform well in low light situations.

MICRO FOUR THIRDS(Panasonic and Olympus)

Moving on, there's a joint camera system that's being occupied by both Panasonic and Olympus which is called Micro Four Thirds(MFT or M4/3), which uses MFT mount. It's the most mature mirrorless system by far, and it has the most selection of both body and lens. The recent offerings of Panasonic and Olympus are really good, with tons of features being crammed into their bodies at different price points. MFT cameras are generally smaller than APS-C mirrorless cameras, especially when considering the lens size together with the body. Both Panasonic and Olympus cameras have very fast autofocus speed, which I think is the fastest when compared to APS-C and full-frame mirrorless cameras. Panasonic has better video features such as 4K recording and multi FPS footages without slouching on the still picture department. Olympus is geared more toward still picture by adding important features such as in-body stabilizer which allows the use of non stabilized lens to get longer exposures without shaking. I personally prefer MFT cameras because they're simply the most balanced cameras when it comes to performance vs size vs price vs the ecosystem of the system itself. The main drawback of MFT cameras is that they're using slightly smaller than APS-C sensor that's called 4/3 sensor. The sensor now performs well in lower light to a certain degree but it cannot compete with the shallowness of the depth of field produced by both APS-C and full frame sensors.
Points to consider for MFT cameras:
- Fast autofocus. Panasonic faster than Fuji and Sony.
- Most complete selection of lens up to pro level and great selection of body at different price points up to pro-level.
- Panasonic good for both still and video. (GX7, GX8, G7, GH4, GM5, GM1)
- Olympus good for still, but the latest one isn't a slouch in video. (E-M1, E-M5II, E-M10II)
- Generally small size, but can also be big too. (GM1, GM5, E-PL6, E-PL7)
- 4/3 sensor performs very well but can't get very shallow depth of field compared to APS-C or full frame.
- Nice touchscreen for most cameras.
- Panasonic has good menu layout, Olympus doesn't but it has a Super Control Panel for quick-menu.

FUJI
Fuji is also one of the most popular mirrorless brand with its X-series cameras. Starting with a fix lens X100 camera, Fuji has now introduced many bodies, both interchangeable-lens and fix-lens that screams quality. It uses Fuji Trans-X APS-C sensor which boast nice image quality as well as good low light performance. Fuji has a quite nice lens selection too, but at a rather expensive price compared to other systems. Most of Fuji cameras has that retro-styled bodies which reminds most people to vintage rangefinder film cameras from many years ago. I must say, I like that kind of look to be honest. Autofocus was slow when they first got the X100 and the early X Pro and X-E models, but now with the firmware updates on almost all of their bodies, the autofocus speed has gotten better and better each time they roll an update.
Points to consider for Fuji X series:
- Good autofocus. (X-T1, X-E2, X-M1, X-A2)
- Good lens selection, but the price is rather expensive.
- Good selection of bodies, up to pro level.
- Nice performance of the X-Trans APS-C sensor, even in low light.
- Handsomely designed bodies.
- Video features are very limited.
- Fuji issues firmware updates frequently, even for older camera models.
- No touchscreen.

SONY
Sony is also one of the hottest mirrorless camera maker. They started with Alpha A-mount series long time ago, and then they continued with NEX series, and now with the new Alpha E-mount series. Sony has two sensors that are being employed on its cameras, an APS-C sensor, and a full frame sensor. Both A6000 and A5100 have APS-C sensor while the larger A7 series cameras have full frame sensor. The APS-C sensor cameras have a very decent autofocus speed and they are generally very well-spec'ed for the price, making them very competitive when compared to the other brands. The full-frame sensor cameras don't have as fast autofocus when compared to the APS-C sensor equipped cameras, but the image quality produced by the A7 series cameras is currently the best in the mirrorless market. They do decent video, even they have A7S series that are aimed exclusively for video. The only drawback to the system is the lack of fast pro zoom lens, which hinders professional photographers to jump into this system completely.
Points to consider for Sony E-mount cameras:
- APS-C excellent autofocus. (A6000, A5100)
- Full-frame excellent image quality but AF not as fast. (A7II, A7RII, A7SII)
- The only system that can offer full-frame mirrorless camera "at reasonable price-point". (Original A7)
- Good video, especially on A7S series.
- Okay selection of lens, but lacks pro fast zoom lenses.
- Lack-luster battery life on most cameras.
- A7R Mark II reaches 42MP, the highest native megapixel on a mirrorless camera.
- No touchscreen.

There are also other system such as Pentax Q, and of course the famous Leica digital rangefinders. I don't know a lot about them, but definitely Leica is nice for those who can afford it. I certainly can't justify their price tag, so might as well stick to a more properly-priced system. Pentax Q has a small 1/1.7 inch sensor that is the same size as what you'll get in compact camera, might as well buy a compact camera and save your money.

Oh, I forgot to mention Samsung! But I heard they're closing their camera department though, so I can't really talk about Samsung. But I heard the NX1 and NX500 were pretty good though, based on some reviews that I observed.
     

Non Inter-changeable Lens Camera: High-End Compact Camera

You might not need a dozen of lens. You might not need the largest sensor. You might not need crazy features. You just want a simple, easy to use camera that can produce an image that are multiple times better than your phone's picture.

We're basically talking about point-and-shoot cameras at this point....or what they should have been in these days. I'm not talking about Casio Exilim or Canon ISUS, they're not substantial enough compared to your smartphone's camera. I'm talking about high-performance, large-sensored compact camera. They have earned the place in the middle between your smartphone and the mirrorless/DSLR cameras.

Fortunately, the choices for such camera are plenty.

First we have Fuji X100 series (X100, X100S, X100T) which offers a very large APS-C sensor with a fixed 22mm lens(35mm in full frame). This camera will give you the same image quality as any Fuji X series camera, but with a single fixed lens instead of an interchangeable mounting system. I like this camera, but be prepared with the fixed lens. The 23mm(35mm in full frame) focal length is regarded as a semi-landscape focal length that is more suited for things like street photography. Be prepared to get to know the focal length really well, and for me it's the biggest limitation of this camera in general.


We also have Panasonic LX100, which has an MFT sensor inside that can produce a 12MP image that is comparable in image quality to any MFT camera of its generation. It sports a rather-nice 24-75mm f1.7-2.8 lens that can take anything from landscape to short-range portrait. It also packs a really nice 4K video capability, which is really cool. The main drawback of this camera is the size, it isn't exactly small, but it's still as small as a mid-sized MFT camera, which is small enough to fit in a small bag.



The most popular choice for this kind of camera, however, is the Sony's RX100 series. It's now in its fourth generation, but even the first generation of the RX100 is still good enough for what it is today. It's the only one that's pocketable and resembles the form factor of a point-and-shoot camera. It packs a rather small 1-inch sensor, but it's still much bigger than your smartphone's or point-and-shoot camera's sensor. A definitely good all rounder camera, the only drawback of this camera is the lack of proper manual control. But for what it is, the RX100 is a really nice option.

Canon offered the G7X and G9X which are spec'ed similar to the Sony's RX100. They also produce the same image quality compared to the RX100, so they're pretty good. However, don't get caught in Canon's older Powershot such as G16 and G1X, they're sub-par when compared to the newer G7X and G9X, even with the large sensor size of both the G1X and G1X Mark II.

Fuji also has a small-sensor high-end compact such as the X20 and X30. They are both very good for a small-sensored camera(1/1.7 inch sensor, not much bigger compared to your smartphone's sensor), but as with all small-sensor camera, they will take a toll in low light. And they are rather expensive for the price point, so I don't really recommend them.

I'm not really familiar with what Nikon or other brand has to offer for this category. But as a general rule of thumb, aim for at least 1-inch sensor size.
               

Mirrorless(or High-End Compact) vs DSLR

This is a very hot topic and a lot of people debate this topic. Here's my personal take on this topic:

If you need to take high-speed action photography, use DSLR, there's no alternative choice for this. Phase detect AF can still deliver much better continuous autofocus, so stick with it if that's what you need to get the job done. I personally don't shoot sport, but even if I do, I'll be shooting in single AF most likely. As far as I know, most pros use Phase detect continuous AF when it comes to high-speed action stuffs though, so keep that in mind. Choices for this includes Canon 7D Mark II and Nikon D7200.

If you need abundant choice of 3rd party accessories and lens, DSLR still has more options. Canon and Nikon has more alternatives than any other camera system in the market, and some of the choices such as lenses and such are pretty good too! Consider Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 if you are using APS-C Canon or Nikon body, we don't have such native 3rd party lens available in any other system. This could justify the need to have a DSLR system.

Also, if you need better support for professional after-sales and service, chances are DSLR system will have better options compared to any mirrorless system to date. As far as I know, Canon and Nikon both have professional after-sales system program which allow its users to enjoy professional service such as camera repair and such that goes above and beyond other after-sales program in any camera system.

On the other hand, if you need video, use mirrorless, even Canon's highest non-cinema DSLR(5D Mark III) can't compete with feature-packed mirrorless cameras such as Panasonic's G7 and GH4, or Sony's A7S and A7R Mark II. DSLRs can't also do autofocus during video, unlike mirrorless cameras. Some high-end compact such as Panasonic LX100 can also be a good option.

If you need to have a camera that you can carry all the time without being dragged by its weight and the size of the lenses, get any of the high-end compact cameras. Most of people who I know that have DSLRs prefer to leave their DSLRs at home and take pictures using their phones, while those with high-end compacts will tend to carry their cameras whenever possible. Meanwhile, I know some mirrorless cameras can be very huge when compared to high-end compacts, but their overall size and weight(including lens and everything) are still lighter and smaller than the overall size and weight of a DSLR system. So depending on what's your preference, a mirrorless camera can also be a choice for a lighter overall system, especially for cameras like Panasonic GM1, GM5 and Olympus PEN series.

Along the same line, if you need to shoot pictures inconspicuously, use mirrorless or high-end compact cameras. DSLRs are big and will make you look like a pro photographer. Mirrorless or high-end compact camera usually doesn't look as intimidating as a DSLR and thus can help you to stay low-profile a bit better, without compromising image quality.

If you shoot at weird angles(high, low, shoot-from-the-hip, video), use mirrorless. Most DLSRs don't have adjustable vari-angle screen and even if they have, you'll have to rely on the OVF, anyway to be able to use the Phase detect AF, but most mirrorless cameras most of the time will have vari-angle screen that can be tilted or even swiveled to help you shoot at non-eye-level angles, while being able to keep using the full functionality of the Contrast detect AF. Some high-end compact cameras have this feature too, but not all.

However, if you want to "look like a pro and need show off my pro-looking camera", then by all means go for a DSLR. I know this is a somewhat important point to some people and that's why DSLRs and DSLR-like bridge cameras are still attractive to the average consumer market. Most mirrorless cameras don't look huge and tough, and some of them don't even look like a pro camera at all. Don't even mention high-end compact camera, they're too cute for the job. I've been treated differently when holding a DSLR and this could sometimes help me to get a better spot when shooting an event or things like that. Also if you have a picky client who requires you to use a pro-looking camera, having a DSLR can be very helpful.
         

Conclusion

It seemed that I prefer mirrorless cameras more than DSLR. Yes, I am biased toward mirrorless cameras, but not without a good reason. I had my Canon 650D back then, and I know very well what it's capable of, but now after my switch to MFT cameras, my eyes were really opened by the overall better experience that I had using my MFT cameras. I'm not saying that DSLRs don't have a place in the market anymore. They still have, but now some of them are slowly being replaced with mirrorless cameras that pack more features for the same price-point.

Please treat this post as a merely personal opinion, and nothing more than that. I don't want to urge you to switch to mirrorless if you are still using DSLR. It's not the tool that matters in the end, it's the result. If you are comfortable using DSLR, then use it by all means and create great photos with it for as long as you have it. If you like mirrorless camera, shoot with it by all means. There's no bad camera these days, you can hardly pick a camera that performs very sub-par compared to the others(except EOS M, lolll), and that fact should make you feel comfortable getting any kind of camera for your photography needs.

I personally still and will continue to use MFT cameras for as long as they still suit my requirements. If you ask what camera will I choose if I could only have a single camera right now, that will be a Panasonic GX8.

That's all, I hope you enjoyed the post, cheers and God bless you :)

Saturday, August 15, 2015

The Primest of the Primes: Panasonic Lumix 20mm f/1.7 Mark II

Important Update: I tested this lens with the Panasonic GX7 and I must say that the autofocus improved significantly. It no longer hunts for focus, and it also snaps very quickly, just like the rest of my MFT lenses. So it's safe to conclude that the use of this lens with older body such as the E-PL6 or anything before that may cause slow autofocus speed.
 

Hello all! Sorry for the lack of posts but with so much travelling and a lot of work recently it's kinda difficult for me to make time to write here. I do appreciate all of you who regularly visit this blog.

My E-PL6 with the 20mm, surrounded by the other lenses that I usually attach to it.
Today I want to talk about the stuff of the legend: Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 Mark II. It's the second generation of the lens that has achieved cult status in Micro Four Thirds world. Delivering a field of view equivalent to 40mm in full frame, it is one of the most versatile lens for street photography as well as general walk-around all purpose prime lens.

Mounted on the E-PL6.
I bought it as a substitute for three of my lenses: Olympus 17mm f2.8, Olympus 17mm f1.8, and Olympus 25mm f1.8. All three of these lenses are fantastic, but sometimes I just wish they are blended together as a single lens rather than three separate lenses. I prefer a lens with the compactness of 17mm f2.8, but with the field of view that could mimic both 17mm and 25mm, with a fast aperture of at least f1.8. Voila, this lens showed up on an online camera shop, and I took the plunge and bought it immediately.

The Good Stuff?

It's very compact and easy to carry around!
It's extremely sharp! Holy, parking, cow! I don't pixel peep too often on my images, but even looking at normal viewing zoom, this lens is noticeably sharper than most of the lenses in my collection. I didn't expect a lens of this size and price to outperform many of my lenses, but it did and it just blew my mind away!

Shoot it at f1.7 and it's very sharp, stop it down a bit to f1.8 and the sharpness will improve. To get even sharper result on the lens, stop it down to at least f2. F2.8 will give you the optimum center sharpness quality, and f4 or f5.6 will give you excellent sharpness all across the frame. Diffraction starts to kick in at f8 and above, so avoid those aperture except if you really must have sufficient depth of field. I rarely stop down this lens and f1.7 never really gives me any sharpness issue.

Speaking of image quality, this lens also has a very good contrast. It is able to deliver images with deeper tone and you can really notice it without even pixel peeping. It's also quite resistant to flare and works really well in most lighting scenarios to generate good images, provided that you are shooting with adequate proper techniques.

It's also small, compact, and as small as the 17mm f2.8. Combined with smaller Micro Four Thirds bodies like my E-PL6, it now fits perfectly into my short pants' large pocket. It will definitely fit into regular jacket pocket and most certainly small bags. This kind of tiny lens with high level of performance on a very small form factor like this is almost unheard of in other camera formats and mounts!


The Bad Stuff...

Obviously, as you may have heard in many other review, the autofocus of this lens is kind of slow in low light, especially when combined with previous generation of Micro Four Thirds bodies like my E-PL6. It's fast in good light though, and the trick with this lens is to really look for contrasty part of the frame and focus on that to get a lock-on in low light conditions.

There is some little audible noise when you are focusing the lens, but it's not as bad as the Olympus 17mm f2.8. So it's not as over-hyped as people had said. Maybe the first generation of this lens is louder, but I'm not sure because I've never tried the older version of this lens. There is also some rattle-snake sound coming out in the audio when you are doing video using this lens, and many had said that it's cross brand compatibility issue that happens when you use Oly body like my E-PL6 with Pana lens. However, it also happened with my Olympus 17mm f1.8, so I think it's the problem that should be associated with the body itself, not with the lens.

Some people also said that they see some banding appearing on their images when they shoot this lens on an Olympus body at high ISO(above 800). I shot mine a lot on E-PL6 at ISO 1600 and 3200, and I didn't find any problem with banding whatsoever, I just couldn't find it in my images. That could be the problem of the older version of this lens that got fixed with this version of the lens. Or maybe my eyes aren't simply not sensitive enough to notice it.

To Sum It Up

The sweet story of this lens doesn't come up perfectly fine all the time. The autofocus mainly got me a bit bummed a few times as I have to wait for the lens to hunt the focus back and forth a few times or even sometimes I have to re-focus the lens multiple times to get the correct lock-on focus. But besides that, this is the lens is focusing as fast as the others in good light.

Many people complained about 20mm being not wide enough as they are used to 17mm(35mm equivalent) field of view. It's true, there is a noticeable difference of field of view between 17mm and 20mm and it's a significant difference that could make or break a shot. I personally always found the 17mm to be too wide most of the time so the 20mm really solves that problem, but you may feel different about it. So make sure you try to get the feel of 20mm before you make your decision.

So, is this lens able to substitute those three lenses as I mentioned before? Partially, yes. My 17mm f2.8 is now packed in its original box and ready to be sold soon. My 17mm f1.8 and 25mm f1.8 hasn't been used for a month since I use this lens. But I'm not ready to sell those primes yet as both the 17mm and 25mm f1.8 are very fast when it comes to focus speed, and my 20mm will never be able to rival those lens. The speed difference will matter the most when it comes to street photography under less than ideal light and in that kind of environment, I will want to rely on either my 17mm or 25mm instead of 20mm; but for anything else that doesn't require fast focusing, the 20mm will always be my choice.

See some of my sample images taken with this lens:

This is the field of view of 20mm. It could mimic either 17mm or 25mm.

See those details in the meat, my goodness it's just so sharp!

It's not wide enough, but so is the regular 17mm.

An attempt to get a street photo using this lens. Luckily the light is good so it doesn't hunt focus.

It's very good for general purpose walk-around lens.

Works well enough in contrasty scene.

This is the 20mm working to mimic the 17mm's wideness.

This is the kind of image that I am after with this lens.
I use it in studio environment too, and I love how flexible it is!
Environmental portrait with this lens is fantastic!

I don't know why, but I tend to use this lens for food photo

Let me know if you see some banding in this image. This was shot at very high ISO.


This was also shot at a very high ISO, I didn't notice any banding here.

I hope this post will help you to determine whether the 20mm f1.7 Mark II is the right lens for you or not. Also consider the older version of this lens if you decide that 20mm is the right lens for you as it is cheaper than the Mark II version. Until next post, cheers and God bless you :)

Important Update: I successfully managed to get the banding issue to appear on my shots! Horay! It's actually happening only and only when you take a picture in within just a few seconds, just after you coupled this lens with the camera and turning it on right away right after the coupling. The first few seconds of the shots after I coupled this lens with the camera finally showed some bands. But when you keep this lens on the body for so long without changing lens, the banding issue disappears again, even if you quickly turn on the camera and shoot right away.

Tuesday, March 31, 2015

My Thoughts on Olympus PEN E-PL6 (Updated with Sample Pictures)

Hello people, today I want to share my thoughts of my lovely little Olympus E-PL6. I bought the E-PL6 a few months ago as a secondary body for my GX7 and the main function of the camera is to have a secondary lens attached at all times to cover the blind spots of the other lens that's being attached to the GX7.

For example, if I have a 12-35mm on the GX7, I would want to have either a 7-14mm on my E-PL or a 75mm f1.8 depending on what I need. If I have the 17mm on the GX7, I want the E-PL6 to wield the 45mm f1.8. If I have a 14-140mm on the GX7, I would want to have either a 7-14mm or the 100-300mm on the E-PL6. You get the idea.

This is my E-PL6 with all of the lens that I usually attach to it.

Let's start with the basic spec

It is small, basically it is only 10cm wide, 6cm high, and 3cm thick. There's not a whole lot of buttons, it doesn't even come with a dedicated ISO and white balance buttons. There is a rotating dial that you can use to change aperture or shutter speed depending on the mode which then can also be used to adjust exposure compensation. The camera has a detachable extension grip that improves the handling a little bit which I always install on the camera. The shutter button feels a bit loose and you have to really concentrate to feel the half shutter position. However, to make things better, you can enable the Super Control Panel from the menu and you can quick access the settings that you need to change without going to the menu.
The E-PL6 with the 75mm f1.8 to cover mid telephoto portrait.

The screen is a bit old-res and outdated for a 2014 camera. It can be tilted 180 degree upward and 45 degree downward, but it can't be flipped. But it is enough for me to chimp on a picture to check for focus and motion blur.

Image quality wise, it has the same sensor as the one in OM-D E-M5, so basically you have the same top notch MFT image quality from the flagship camera. It is sharp and it offers plenty of dynamic range, but it isn't as clean as my GX7 on high ISOs. It has the in body stabilizer like every other Olympus MFTs but it's a bit crippled; I think it only improves your shutter speed for a stop or two stops, so it's not really like the one in the flagship OM-Ds.
The E-PL6 with the Panny 14-42mm II as a general purpose lens

Initially, not that impressive except for the image quality

The E-PL6 itself wasn't intended to be my main camera and I don't need it to have a spectacular level of performance. I didn't have the intention to bring it out on its own when I want to photograph something. For that, I thought I would always bring the GX7 as I trusted it to be the camera that can handle itself nicely.....until few months of using both the cameras together.

Surprisingly, the E-PL6 stood up its ground and it changed my mind

Yes, it doesn't offer the best control for manual settings, it doesn't offer the fastest autofocus(it hunts the focus badly at low light), it doesn't give the cleanest high ISO performance. Heck, even the handling is a bit too fiddly for my hands because it lacks the grip of bigger camera. But after a few times carrying it on a few casual trips and using it by itself without the GX7, it somehow managed to impress me!
The E-PL6 with 17mm f2.8 for ultimate compactness.

First, the small size makes it easier for me to carry it all day as it is smaller than my GX7. For non serious stuffs, I usually attach the 17mm f2.8 pancake to the E-PL6 and slip it to my cargo pocket on my short pants. At this point, I enabled the "Super Control Panel", set the Fn button to ISO button, put the camera on aperture priority, and shoot away. I can now bring this camera anywhere with me and extract good quality images when I need it to.

The camera bonds very well with normal sized or pancake sized prime lenses but it's no slouch when paired with bigger zooms too. The camera wields the 7-14mm wide angle lens very well and it is about the perfect match in terms of size and ease of handling. Even the mighty 75mm f1.8 bonds really well with E-PL6! There are times when I am crazy enough to put the 100-300mm and it can still be handled; but be very careful as now the lens gets heavy, you have to pay attention and hold the lens too with your left hand, otherwise you can hurt your right hand from the unbalanced weight distribution.

With 45mm f1.8 for general portrait.

I have survived many days without the GX7 and using the E-PL6 as my main camera, even for serious photograph needs. The layout of the camera forces you to think simple and be straight forward. It's limiting and frustrating sometimes, but it makes you approach photography with a sense of minimalism.

With 25mm f1.8 for tight walk-around lens.
There was one time when my only kit consisted of only an E-PL6 as my main camera, a 17mm f1.8 and a 45mm f1.8; it was during a travel which means I couldn't access my other gears. I left my GX7 at home, and carry no other lens. Heck, I didn't even carry an extra battery nor an extra SD card for the E-PL6! But to my surprise, it made me think and concentrate before I shoot and I pick my shots carefully. I survived and I was quite happy with the quality of the photos that the E-PL6 spits out to my computer. A healthy restriction can make you experience photography in a better way, I guess.

And that brings us to the conclusion

The E-PL6 is a good camera and it's a bit underrated by the other big guns in MFT world. It handles almost anything quite nicely and you can definitely use it as a main camera when you need it. After a few months using it, I am very confident that the E-PL6 will continue to deliver great results in any circumstance that demands specific photography needs from it. Sure, there are many flaws as I explained above and those flaws may cause you to miss a shot, but for what it can do and for the price, the E-PL6 fits my needs and it is the best bang for the buck camera ever!
With 17mm f1.8 for a wide walk-around lens

As of now, the price of E-PL6 slowly drops as the E-PL7 is already present in the market. Many people will ask if they should buy/upgrade to the E-PL7. My answers: if you already have an E-PL5 or an E-PL6 then don't buy E-PL7. If you own anything older than E-PL5 or if you are looking for a new small camera with interchangeable lens, then you should consider E-PL 5 or E-PL6 if you want cheaper price, but consider E-PL7 if you need the front wheel for better manual control.
With Panny 7-14mm to cover ultra wide shots.

For me personally, I will keep the E-PL6 for a long time until there comes the time when I need to upgrade it to a significantly more enhanced camera with much better IQ.

That's it for now, folks. I hope you enjoyed this post, cheers and God bless you :)

Here's some sample images taken using the Olympus E-PL6:
The E-PL6 wields the Panasonic 7-14mm with no problem. 

The 7-14mm does make it a bit too front heavy for the E-PL6 but not too much.

Again with the Panasonic 7-14mm.

Also with the 7-14mm

This was using Olympus 45mm f1.8

The 45mm f1.8 is the best matching lens for the E-PL6.

With the 7-14mm again.

Taken with Olympus 17mm f1.8. Also one of the best matching lens for E-PL6.

7-14mm again.

7-14mm again.

With the 75mm f1.8.

I think this was 25mm f1.8 if I'm not mistaken.

45mm and E-PL6 is the best!

Again 45mm.

Again 7-14mm

Again 45mm.