Showing posts with label aperture priority. Show all posts
Showing posts with label aperture priority. Show all posts

Monday, February 1, 2016

How I Shoot It #1: Fast-Moving Shinkansen Train

Hey guys, I am starting a new series called "How I Shoot It" for this blog. The reason is so that I can share my ball-park settings as well as my techniques on capturing a specific shot that I've done in the past. I hope that by doing this, I can help many people who are learning to nail the kind of shots that are similar to the ones that I will post in this series.

Today, the photo that I want to share with you is a photo of a Shinkansen train. For those who don't know what a Shinkansen is, it's the Japanese railroad network for the famous high-speed "Bullet Train". Here it is:
 
 
I took this picture in mid-2014 during vacation. By that time, my setup was a Canon EOS M with Tamron 17-55mm f/2.8 non-VC. This means auto-focus is very slow, and I often focus my lenses using hyperfocal distances and shoot with quite small aperture (f/8, f/11) to get-around using autofocus.

The concept of this picture is to capture the train while it's moving, and to have a sensation of movement by using motion panning technique.
 

Let's get down to it! 

Camera Setting

First thing first, my camera setting is Aperture Priority(A or Av) with aperture around f/10, shutter speed on auto, and ISO 100.

Definitely, the shutter speed isn't slow enough at f/10 because the EXIF says it's 1/160sec. Ideally you'll want less than 1/60sec, but going above f/10 will introduce diffraction which will soften the image and dust spots on the sensor which will require editing.
 

Technique

I first began by anticipating which direction would the train go to. After watching a few trains passing by, I knew that it would go from left to right on the furthest rail-line. I focused my camera on the railroad, just right in front of where the train is at in the picture, and hoping that the depth of field will be sufficient to cover the train in focus.

Then, when the train came, I panned the camera from left to right, trying to keep the cockpit glass on the center of the frame as a reference to where I should aim while panning, hoping that the shutter speed is enough to motion-blur anything but the train.

The main thing that I need to emphasize here is the panning itself. With motion-panning, you will have to really "follow" the subject's motion with your camera as precise as possible to avoid motion-blurring your subject. You want to just strictly motion-blur anything but the subject. Use a reference point on the subject (eye, cockpit glass, steering wheel) and try your best to keep that reference point on the same spot on your frame while you're panning.
 

How To Improve?

I should use slower shutter speed and gain greater motion-blur effect on the image, but the ambient light was too bright for that. To improve this picture, you could probably use a 2-stop ND filter when you have one ready at your hands and have slower shutter speed at the same setting, or simply shut the aperture to f/16 at the risk of getting a diffraction and get a slightly softer image. When the moment hits, it's up to your artistic call, you'll have to compromise anyway so choose which one that you'll sacrifice to get the image: the sharpness because of the diffraction, the motion blur of the ambient because of the higher shutter speed, or the money and time for buying the ND and screwing it on the lens. Obviously, at that time I chose the motion blur to get this picture.

I cropped the top and the bottom of the image, because I want the aspect ratio to be wider than 3:2. This is mainly done to help emphasizing the physical length of the train. Don't worry about cropping your image, I know that it's preferable that you can have the composition done in the camera, but that doesn't mean you can't artistically improve it by cropping it a little bit.

Processing in Lightroom was quite minimal, I mostly just reduce the black by -10, add the white by +10, add some shadow, reduce a slight highlight, and add clarity by around +20, and a very slight saturation to the whole image. There is a little bit of noise reduction and sharpening going on, but nothing crazy.

That's all for this image, stay tuned for the next post of "How I Shoot It"! I hope you found this post helpful. Cheers and God bless you!

Monday, March 2, 2015

Quickest Way to Start Shooting in Semi Auto or Full Manual part 1

Ever wondered why your friends who shoot full manual or semi auto modes on their cameras can make their pictures better? Are you frustrated that your camera doesn't do what you're hoping it to do? Are you tired of blurry pictures or having everything in focus when you want some bokeh? I am going to share the "shortcuts" to take great picture without learning too much. I hope you will have the confidence and the control to shoot in whatever mode besides auto after you are reading this. Disclaimer: this is just a quick guide and intended only for quick-and-dirty instant better looking photos. You, however, will benefit much more when you are learning the basic theories behind what I'm about to say to improve your understanding and control in photography.

Before we start, what you will need is to know how to change these settings in manual mode on your camera:

1. Aperture: usually marked F/some number or just Fnumber. Example: F/5.6 or F5.6
2. Shutter Speed: usually marked 1/some number or just simply the number. Example 1/200s or 200
3. ISO: usually marked ISO followed by number. Example: ISO 400, ISO 1600.
4. Mode dial: the rotating button on top of your camera with bunch of little icons such as P, A, S, M, Auto, Scenery, Art, etc. Sometimes your camera doesn't have the mode dial physically but it has the menu system to replace it.

Consult your camera's manual if you don't know how to change those settings in full manual mode.

Let's start! 

I am tired of blurry pictures of my kids running

There are two ways to tackle this problem.
1. Full Manual. Set the mode dial to M. Set shutter speed to 1/250s or higher, set aperture as big as you can(the bigger the aperture, the smaller the number is; f3.5 is bigger than f5.6), and adjust ISO to balance the exposure meter or simply set ISO to auto if possible. A quick guide on ISO that I usually use: 1600 indoor and 200 or 400 outdoor. Please note that you always want ISO to be as low as you can.

2. Shutter Priority. Set the mode dial to S or Tv(in Canon's/Pentax' language). Set shutter speed to 1/250s or higher, aperture will adjust itself automatically, set ISO to auto if possible or set it to 1600 when indoor or 100 to 400 when outdoor.

I want to get some bokeh/blurry background

There are two ways to tackle this problem. But before you tackle the problem, make sure you zoom the lens as zoomed as possible, set your subject to get as close as you can to the camera and get as far away from the background as you can. Now onto the settings:
1. Full Manual. Set the mode dial to M. Set the aperture as big as you can, set the shutter speed to at least 1/60s for living subject or 1/30s for still object. Set ISO to auto if possible or set it to 1600 when indoor or 100 to 400 when outdoor.

2. Aperture Priority. Set the mode dial to A or Av. Set the aperture as big as you can, set the ISO to auto or to as your liking as I previously mentioned. The shutter speed will adjust itself automatically to match the exposure.

I want to make some dreamy soft beach waves pictures or waterfall pictures

Bring a tripod for sure because you want to use tripod for this. There are three ways you can do this.
1. Full Manual. Set the mode dial to M. Set aperture to at least f8 or smaller. Set ISO as low as possible(if possible below 200 or 100) and set shutter speed as slow as possible(the ideal is more than 1 second). When setting those properties, make sure to match the exposure meter to as close to 0 as possible. Then shoot the picture with the camera on tripod using timer.

2. Shutter Priority. Set the mode dial to S or Tv. Set the shutter speed to at least 1 second or slower. Set the ISO to auto or set it as low as possible, the aperture will adjust itself automatically. Put the camera on tripod and fire away using timer.

I want to shoot candid on the street and I don't want to change settings


I use the following setting:

1. Aperture Priority. Set the mode dial to A or Av. Set the aperture to as big as you can, set the ISO to auto and the shutter will adjust itself. You can also set the ISO to either 400 for indoor or 1600 for outdoor.

2. Shutter Priority. Set the mode dial to S or Tv. Set the shutter speed to 1/250s or faster, set the ISO to auto and the aperture will adjust itself. You can also set the ISO as mentioned above.





I want to shoot landscape

I use the following setting:
1. Aperture Priority. Set the mode dial to A or Av. Set the aperture to at least f5.6 or smaller, zoom the lens out to the widest possible or zoom it in just a little bit from the widest possible. Set ISO until at least you can get 1/30s shutter speed when the landscape doesn't contain any moving objects. Shoot away!









To be continued in part 2.