Tuesday, November 17, 2015

My Thoughts on "Which Camera Should I Buy?"

Greetings good people of the internet. I want to share my thoughts of a very popular questions that I get a lot and I'm sure you also get too from people around you. What I'm about to share is just an opinion and must not be treated as an exact guideline, although it really fits into my context of camera buying in this ultra modern age of camera technology (November 2015).
               

Camera nowadays

In these days of #selfie, #wefie, #foodporn, #nofilter, #ootd, #tbt, and #yolo, I often time ask myself: what is the significance of having a dedicated camera for a person these days? What is the real meaning of photography for a regular person these days? What's the value of the photographs when everyone can take a picture?

One thing that I'm sure is that consumer point-and-shoot camera's days are numbered. My Sony Xperia phone has the 1/2.3 sensor in it that is the same with what you will get on many consumer pocket camera and it also has the capability to process the picture properly with little noise and decent sharpness while maintaining good color and dynamic range.



Heck, I can even Lightroom the poo out of my phone pictures and make it look so much better while I struggled with my previously owned Canon Powershot G15 to get a decent post processing result. So, as you see, it is quite pointless these days for people to buy consumer camera when their phone takes picture with equal quality.

With that in mind, I can only imagine that photography is going to be much easier, more portable, more instant, more share-able, and more accessible to even more people in the future. And even today, that trend is very apparent and it is happening right at this very second with the help of social media, apps, yada yada yada.

In short, it's safe to say that most people today who want to start "serious photography" are most of the time coming as smartphone camera shooters. Which I think isn't too different from point-and-shoot shooters; they only know how to point, and shoot the camera/phone.
                  

Motivation

When those people who were previously a smartphone or point-and-shoot shooters want to start "serious photography", I do question a lot of things. I must know what the motivations are for that person to start photography, and most of the time many people will say "I just want a nice, big, professional camera with lenses that takes great pictures. Which one is better, Canon or Nikon?" 

While there is nothing wrong with that statement, unfortunately only a very few times I got people who said to me that they know what they want to photograph and they want to commit seriously in their own way to learn about photography before jumping into a proper camera.

Some people will want to use photography as a way to get more income. They will want to make money with taking pictures professionally, and they want to have the best bang for the buck camera that they can get with the best possible image quality for the money. And that's when spending a good chunk of money for a nice camera with lenses and accessories makes a lot of sense. They specifically know what they want to produce with the image, and that makes it a lot easier to suggest a specific camera system that will suit them.

But others are doing photography just for a hobby. They just want to have a nice camera that can take good image during vacation that could do more than what their cellphones camera can do. They demand high quality image in a more portable package and it should be able to deliver good images in many different situation. They want a step up from a phone-camera or a point-and-shoot camera. And that's the majority of the crowd that I'm encountering right now, including myself.
           

Enough, let's dive into the options

As of today, there are some major camera system options that you can choose in the market. But I will simplify it into three major system for now: DSLRs, Mirrorless Cameras, and High-End Compact Cameras.
     

DSLRs

They have been around for quite some time, and they're the most established system between the two. A unique characteristic of DSLR is that it features an optical viewfinder that's comprised of some prism-mirror to reflect the image from the lens directly to the eye of the shooter; thus the name Digital Single Lens Reflex.

Two big players of DSLR are Canon and Nikon(and Sony's Alpha A-mount, but they are technically half mirrorless). This is where the opinion gets divided most of the time, Canon vs Nikon. Most will say Canon is better than Nikon, without even knowing why. Some who say Nikon is better than Canon is right, but they also don't know why.

Let me tell you what I know from both Canon and Nikon. As of today, Nikon is better for still pictures compared to Canon. It generally has more megapixel(if it matters to you, it doesn't matter to me), it has better dynamic range, better noise performance, its sensor is also able to extract way more detail compared to Canon's sensor. Canon pictures are always a bit softer compared to Nikon(except for the new 5DSR, which also has the most megapixel compared to Nikon's highest offering), and all of Canon's cameras lack the dynamic range that is important for landscape photography. Some people will say Nikon color looks better than Canon, no that is not true. When you shoot RAW, both can look very similar, and can be adjusted to look like one another.

Where Canon wins is on video. 5D Mark III has the least amount of moire and aliasing compared to Nikon. Also Canon has better selection of lens compared to Nikon, and some of Canon's lenses that are available in Nikon's line-up are actually better performing than what Nikon has. For example, Canon's 70-200mm f2.8 is better when compared to Nikon's, simply due to the lack of focus breathing and the ability to shoot wide open at 200mm without compromising sharpness and detail. Canon also has plenty of options for ultra telephoto lenses that can produce wonderful images.

However, not all Canon's lens are better compared to Nikon. Nikon still has one legendary lens that can beat the other versions of that lens which is 14-24mm f2.8. Canon has similarly spec'ed 16-35mm f2.8, 16-35mm f4, and 11-24mm f4, but not one of them has the same performance and balance when compared to this lens. It's regarded as one of the best ultra wide-angle lens for quite some time, and it still performs wonderfully until today.

So for those reasons, I can personally simplify which one should you choose. If you are a landscape photographer who doesn't always need a telephoto lens, Nikon is probably the best choice for you. Portrait photographer will also benefit from using Nikon's lens as long as you don't need the telephoto lens. If you need to print high-resolution prints or need to extract as much detail out of the camera, Nikon is also a better choice.

If you are a portrait photographer, sport photographer, wildlife photographer, or constantly need to use long telephoto lens, Canon has the advantage. If you take a lot of video, Canon is also a good choice.

Canon shooter, choose 5D Mark III for video, 5DS/5DSR for stills, and 7D Mark II for long lens and the best autofocus performance. Nikon shooter, choose D750 for both video and stills, and D810 for stills. Don't buy anything under or above that, they're practically not worth the price.

           

Mirrorless Cameras

So far, we've only talked about the DSLRs, but actually now some of the DSLRs are slowly dying and they can't keep up with the new, feature-packed mirrorless cameras that's in the market right now with very aggressive pricing.

The thing about mirrorless camera that appeals the most is the relatively smaller overall size of the camera when compared with its same-spec'ed DSLR counterpart, especially when we consider the size of the lenses as well. This is mainly achieved by removing the prism-mirror design that's still present on the DSLR. By removing the prism, the "flange distance" between the lens to the sensor is greatly reduced, allowing for smaller and lighter lenses to be attached to the camera. The only drawback to this is that the camera has to rely to electronic viewfinder or back-screen LCD for composition. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, since EVF technology has gotten so good today, some people actually prefer EVF over OVF.

The main arguments that are always being used to discourage people from buying mirrorless cameras are the slower autofocus and the inferior image quality when compared to DSLR, even the cheap ones. While it may be true for some mirrorless systems, generally they're not always true.

First, the autofocus on the mirrorless camera utilize a "Contrast Detect" system that actually works by trying to lock on the most contrasty focusing on a certain point (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not the most technically knowledgeable when it comes to certain technical stuffs). DSLR utilizes "Phase Detect" autofocus which uses a small phase-sensor embedded under the mirror to "line-up" the images from the lens and the phase sensor to get it in focus (also correct me if I'm wrong). For most of the time, contrast detect autofocus is pretty fast, can be as fast as the phase detect autofocus in single shot. But when it comes to continuous focus, phase detect still has the upper hand until now.

As for image quality, mirrorless now has finally reached full-frame sensor at 42MP in the form of Sony Alpha 7R Mark II. It sits on the same place as the Nikon D810 and Canon 5DSR, and the image quality produced by that camera is as stellar as both Nikon and Canon's offering if not better. So the argument of inferior image quality isn't valid anymore.

Now onto the choices for mirrorless cameras...

CANON
Canon made a mirrorless system starting with EOS M, and now its recently released EOS M3. The original EOS M is handicapped in many ways. The autofocus is way to slow, the controls are fiddly, and the lens selection isn't that much. Even with the EOS M3, the autofocus isn't yet on par with other mirrorless cameras. It uses the APS-C sensor that's commonly found in two digits EOS DSLRs, and it produces the same image quality as them. You can use your regular EF or EF-S mount lenses with EOS M or M3, but they will take a toll at autofocus speed, which on this camera is already slow even with native lenses. I don't recommend this system at all, it's practically the worst performing mirrorless camera system ever! Canon should be ashamed of these issues! I sold my EOS M long time ago, and I regretted that I fell into the marketing seduction of this camera. Such a shame, since the image quality of the Canon APS-C is pretty good for what it's supposed to be.
Points to consider for Canon EOS M system:
- Bad autofocus.
- Bad lens selection.
- Lack of attention from Canon to develop the system.
- The original EOS M is cheap though, so if you need a cheap mirrorless you can buy the original EOS M.
- Nice touchscreen. Good image quality but not as good as the other APS-C offerings from Sony or Fuji.

NIKON
Nikon also made the Nikon 1 series mirrorless cameras which is more established and well-thought compared to Canon's EOS M. It has good selection of lenses and also the cameras are performing decently especially when it comes to features added, burst rate speed, and autofocus. The only drawbacks of this system is the rather-expensive pricing and the small 1-inch sensor that's being employed on the cameras, which doesn't work too well in low light conditions. Many people use this system for wild-life, as the 1 inch sensor can turn their mild tele lens into an ultra long telephoto lens with a very decent autofocus, and at the same time cram the files with so much megapixels that translates into extra details. But this system isn't as popular as other mirrorless systems.
Points to consider for Nikon 1 series:
- Fast autofocus.
- Decent lens and body selection.
- Small size.
- Lots of nice features, some are also waterproof.
- Smaller sensor can't perform well in low light situations.

MICRO FOUR THIRDS(Panasonic and Olympus)

Moving on, there's a joint camera system that's being occupied by both Panasonic and Olympus which is called Micro Four Thirds(MFT or M4/3), which uses MFT mount. It's the most mature mirrorless system by far, and it has the most selection of both body and lens. The recent offerings of Panasonic and Olympus are really good, with tons of features being crammed into their bodies at different price points. MFT cameras are generally smaller than APS-C mirrorless cameras, especially when considering the lens size together with the body. Both Panasonic and Olympus cameras have very fast autofocus speed, which I think is the fastest when compared to APS-C and full-frame mirrorless cameras. Panasonic has better video features such as 4K recording and multi FPS footages without slouching on the still picture department. Olympus is geared more toward still picture by adding important features such as in-body stabilizer which allows the use of non stabilized lens to get longer exposures without shaking. I personally prefer MFT cameras because they're simply the most balanced cameras when it comes to performance vs size vs price vs the ecosystem of the system itself. The main drawback of MFT cameras is that they're using slightly smaller than APS-C sensor that's called 4/3 sensor. The sensor now performs well in lower light to a certain degree but it cannot compete with the shallowness of the depth of field produced by both APS-C and full frame sensors.
Points to consider for MFT cameras:
- Fast autofocus. Panasonic faster than Fuji and Sony.
- Most complete selection of lens up to pro level and great selection of body at different price points up to pro-level.
- Panasonic good for both still and video. (GX7, GX8, G7, GH4, GM5, GM1)
- Olympus good for still, but the latest one isn't a slouch in video. (E-M1, E-M5II, E-M10II)
- Generally small size, but can also be big too. (GM1, GM5, E-PL6, E-PL7)
- 4/3 sensor performs very well but can't get very shallow depth of field compared to APS-C or full frame.
- Nice touchscreen for most cameras.
- Panasonic has good menu layout, Olympus doesn't but it has a Super Control Panel for quick-menu.

FUJI
Fuji is also one of the most popular mirrorless brand with its X-series cameras. Starting with a fix lens X100 camera, Fuji has now introduced many bodies, both interchangeable-lens and fix-lens that screams quality. It uses Fuji Trans-X APS-C sensor which boast nice image quality as well as good low light performance. Fuji has a quite nice lens selection too, but at a rather expensive price compared to other systems. Most of Fuji cameras has that retro-styled bodies which reminds most people to vintage rangefinder film cameras from many years ago. I must say, I like that kind of look to be honest. Autofocus was slow when they first got the X100 and the early X Pro and X-E models, but now with the firmware updates on almost all of their bodies, the autofocus speed has gotten better and better each time they roll an update.
Points to consider for Fuji X series:
- Good autofocus. (X-T1, X-E2, X-M1, X-A2)
- Good lens selection, but the price is rather expensive.
- Good selection of bodies, up to pro level.
- Nice performance of the X-Trans APS-C sensor, even in low light.
- Handsomely designed bodies.
- Video features are very limited.
- Fuji issues firmware updates frequently, even for older camera models.
- No touchscreen.

SONY
Sony is also one of the hottest mirrorless camera maker. They started with Alpha A-mount series long time ago, and then they continued with NEX series, and now with the new Alpha E-mount series. Sony has two sensors that are being employed on its cameras, an APS-C sensor, and a full frame sensor. Both A6000 and A5100 have APS-C sensor while the larger A7 series cameras have full frame sensor. The APS-C sensor cameras have a very decent autofocus speed and they are generally very well-spec'ed for the price, making them very competitive when compared to the other brands. The full-frame sensor cameras don't have as fast autofocus when compared to the APS-C sensor equipped cameras, but the image quality produced by the A7 series cameras is currently the best in the mirrorless market. They do decent video, even they have A7S series that are aimed exclusively for video. The only drawback to the system is the lack of fast pro zoom lens, which hinders professional photographers to jump into this system completely.
Points to consider for Sony E-mount cameras:
- APS-C excellent autofocus. (A6000, A5100)
- Full-frame excellent image quality but AF not as fast. (A7II, A7RII, A7SII)
- The only system that can offer full-frame mirrorless camera "at reasonable price-point". (Original A7)
- Good video, especially on A7S series.
- Okay selection of lens, but lacks pro fast zoom lenses.
- Lack-luster battery life on most cameras.
- A7R Mark II reaches 42MP, the highest native megapixel on a mirrorless camera.
- No touchscreen.

There are also other system such as Pentax Q, and of course the famous Leica digital rangefinders. I don't know a lot about them, but definitely Leica is nice for those who can afford it. I certainly can't justify their price tag, so might as well stick to a more properly-priced system. Pentax Q has a small 1/1.7 inch sensor that is the same size as what you'll get in compact camera, might as well buy a compact camera and save your money.

Oh, I forgot to mention Samsung! But I heard they're closing their camera department though, so I can't really talk about Samsung. But I heard the NX1 and NX500 were pretty good though, based on some reviews that I observed.
     

Non Inter-changeable Lens Camera: High-End Compact Camera

You might not need a dozen of lens. You might not need the largest sensor. You might not need crazy features. You just want a simple, easy to use camera that can produce an image that are multiple times better than your phone's picture.

We're basically talking about point-and-shoot cameras at this point....or what they should have been in these days. I'm not talking about Casio Exilim or Canon ISUS, they're not substantial enough compared to your smartphone's camera. I'm talking about high-performance, large-sensored compact camera. They have earned the place in the middle between your smartphone and the mirrorless/DSLR cameras.

Fortunately, the choices for such camera are plenty.

First we have Fuji X100 series (X100, X100S, X100T) which offers a very large APS-C sensor with a fixed 22mm lens(35mm in full frame). This camera will give you the same image quality as any Fuji X series camera, but with a single fixed lens instead of an interchangeable mounting system. I like this camera, but be prepared with the fixed lens. The 23mm(35mm in full frame) focal length is regarded as a semi-landscape focal length that is more suited for things like street photography. Be prepared to get to know the focal length really well, and for me it's the biggest limitation of this camera in general.


We also have Panasonic LX100, which has an MFT sensor inside that can produce a 12MP image that is comparable in image quality to any MFT camera of its generation. It sports a rather-nice 24-75mm f1.7-2.8 lens that can take anything from landscape to short-range portrait. It also packs a really nice 4K video capability, which is really cool. The main drawback of this camera is the size, it isn't exactly small, but it's still as small as a mid-sized MFT camera, which is small enough to fit in a small bag.



The most popular choice for this kind of camera, however, is the Sony's RX100 series. It's now in its fourth generation, but even the first generation of the RX100 is still good enough for what it is today. It's the only one that's pocketable and resembles the form factor of a point-and-shoot camera. It packs a rather small 1-inch sensor, but it's still much bigger than your smartphone's or point-and-shoot camera's sensor. A definitely good all rounder camera, the only drawback of this camera is the lack of proper manual control. But for what it is, the RX100 is a really nice option.

Canon offered the G7X and G9X which are spec'ed similar to the Sony's RX100. They also produce the same image quality compared to the RX100, so they're pretty good. However, don't get caught in Canon's older Powershot such as G16 and G1X, they're sub-par when compared to the newer G7X and G9X, even with the large sensor size of both the G1X and G1X Mark II.

Fuji also has a small-sensor high-end compact such as the X20 and X30. They are both very good for a small-sensored camera(1/1.7 inch sensor, not much bigger compared to your smartphone's sensor), but as with all small-sensor camera, they will take a toll in low light. And they are rather expensive for the price point, so I don't really recommend them.

I'm not really familiar with what Nikon or other brand has to offer for this category. But as a general rule of thumb, aim for at least 1-inch sensor size.
               

Mirrorless(or High-End Compact) vs DSLR

This is a very hot topic and a lot of people debate this topic. Here's my personal take on this topic:

If you need to take high-speed action photography, use DSLR, there's no alternative choice for this. Phase detect AF can still deliver much better continuous autofocus, so stick with it if that's what you need to get the job done. I personally don't shoot sport, but even if I do, I'll be shooting in single AF most likely. As far as I know, most pros use Phase detect continuous AF when it comes to high-speed action stuffs though, so keep that in mind. Choices for this includes Canon 7D Mark II and Nikon D7200.

If you need abundant choice of 3rd party accessories and lens, DSLR still has more options. Canon and Nikon has more alternatives than any other camera system in the market, and some of the choices such as lenses and such are pretty good too! Consider Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 if you are using APS-C Canon or Nikon body, we don't have such native 3rd party lens available in any other system. This could justify the need to have a DSLR system.

Also, if you need better support for professional after-sales and service, chances are DSLR system will have better options compared to any mirrorless system to date. As far as I know, Canon and Nikon both have professional after-sales system program which allow its users to enjoy professional service such as camera repair and such that goes above and beyond other after-sales program in any camera system.

On the other hand, if you need video, use mirrorless, even Canon's highest non-cinema DSLR(5D Mark III) can't compete with feature-packed mirrorless cameras such as Panasonic's G7 and GH4, or Sony's A7S and A7R Mark II. DSLRs can't also do autofocus during video, unlike mirrorless cameras. Some high-end compact such as Panasonic LX100 can also be a good option.

If you need to have a camera that you can carry all the time without being dragged by its weight and the size of the lenses, get any of the high-end compact cameras. Most of people who I know that have DSLRs prefer to leave their DSLRs at home and take pictures using their phones, while those with high-end compacts will tend to carry their cameras whenever possible. Meanwhile, I know some mirrorless cameras can be very huge when compared to high-end compacts, but their overall size and weight(including lens and everything) are still lighter and smaller than the overall size and weight of a DSLR system. So depending on what's your preference, a mirrorless camera can also be a choice for a lighter overall system, especially for cameras like Panasonic GM1, GM5 and Olympus PEN series.

Along the same line, if you need to shoot pictures inconspicuously, use mirrorless or high-end compact cameras. DSLRs are big and will make you look like a pro photographer. Mirrorless or high-end compact camera usually doesn't look as intimidating as a DSLR and thus can help you to stay low-profile a bit better, without compromising image quality.

If you shoot at weird angles(high, low, shoot-from-the-hip, video), use mirrorless. Most DLSRs don't have adjustable vari-angle screen and even if they have, you'll have to rely on the OVF, anyway to be able to use the Phase detect AF, but most mirrorless cameras most of the time will have vari-angle screen that can be tilted or even swiveled to help you shoot at non-eye-level angles, while being able to keep using the full functionality of the Contrast detect AF. Some high-end compact cameras have this feature too, but not all.

However, if you want to "look like a pro and need show off my pro-looking camera", then by all means go for a DSLR. I know this is a somewhat important point to some people and that's why DSLRs and DSLR-like bridge cameras are still attractive to the average consumer market. Most mirrorless cameras don't look huge and tough, and some of them don't even look like a pro camera at all. Don't even mention high-end compact camera, they're too cute for the job. I've been treated differently when holding a DSLR and this could sometimes help me to get a better spot when shooting an event or things like that. Also if you have a picky client who requires you to use a pro-looking camera, having a DSLR can be very helpful.
         

Conclusion

It seemed that I prefer mirrorless cameras more than DSLR. Yes, I am biased toward mirrorless cameras, but not without a good reason. I had my Canon 650D back then, and I know very well what it's capable of, but now after my switch to MFT cameras, my eyes were really opened by the overall better experience that I had using my MFT cameras. I'm not saying that DSLRs don't have a place in the market anymore. They still have, but now some of them are slowly being replaced with mirrorless cameras that pack more features for the same price-point.

Please treat this post as a merely personal opinion, and nothing more than that. I don't want to urge you to switch to mirrorless if you are still using DSLR. It's not the tool that matters in the end, it's the result. If you are comfortable using DSLR, then use it by all means and create great photos with it for as long as you have it. If you like mirrorless camera, shoot with it by all means. There's no bad camera these days, you can hardly pick a camera that performs very sub-par compared to the others(except EOS M, lolll), and that fact should make you feel comfortable getting any kind of camera for your photography needs.

I personally still and will continue to use MFT cameras for as long as they still suit my requirements. If you ask what camera will I choose if I could only have a single camera right now, that will be a Panasonic GX8.

That's all, I hope you enjoyed the post, cheers and God bless you :)

Thursday, October 8, 2015

Panasonic Lumix GX8, The Perfect Camera? My Personal Review (UPDATED)

Hello all, I finally took the leap of faith and bought a brand new GX8. As you may have read from my previous posts about the perfect camera, the GX8 ticks most of the boxes of my perfect camera requirements. I already studied the camera by reading a bunch of articles and watching tons of videos for a few months before I finally bought it. And now that it's with me, I want to share my experience of shooting the GX8 with you all.
   
I'm sure many of you have already read all the reviews and watched all the videos on the Internet about the GX8. This will be my personal review, and all the things that I said here are based on my own finding which is of course biased towards my needs as a photographer. So please treat this blog post accordingly. Have fun!
   
Behold, I am the king of MFT cameras!

Overview

Let's get the obvious out of the way, that 20MP new sensor is the most discussed thing of all the aspects of GX8. We'll get to that later, please be patient.
   

Design

I'll start with the design. The body is definitely bigger than the GX7 but not by much. It's slightly heavier than the GX7, but also not by much fortunately. Keep in mind that the GX8 is now almost the same size as a Leica M camera, and it's as big as an OM-D E-M1 without the viewfinder.
   
It does feature a new grip with a cleverly designed front-positioned shutter on top of the grip to improve the handling of the camera significantly, but it still retained the cool rangefinder form-factor that I personally love. The new body is weather-sealed, which makes it more durable in harsh conditions.
   
Speaking of the GX7, the GX7 is smaller so it has the advantage of portability. Combined with intermediate lens like the Olympus 75mm f1.8, 45mm f1.8, Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8, Panasonic 14-140mm f3.5-5.6, or the Panasonic 7-14mm f4, the GX7 can actually offer a smaller package that packs almost the same punch with the GX8. This makes the GX7 a great second camera for utility lenses while the GX8 wields the main lens(usually the 12-35mm f2.8 or 14-140mm f3.5-5.6) and both will make a great dual camera setup that can still fit easily into my Billingham Hadley Small with lots of room to spare.
   
However, with the bigger form factor of the GX8, comes the advantage of better lens handling especially for bigger lens. My 100-300mm fits just nicely on the GX8 and I don't have any problem wielding it using one hand on the GX8. The GX7 and 100-300mm combination is a bit too front heavy and I have to hold it with two hands.
   

Buttons

The main buttons(ISO, WB, drive, AF zone, LVF) are on the same places as on the GX7, so the transition to GX8 isn't difficult. The mode dial is now placed nicely on top of a newly added exposure dial. The two control dials are placed on the top right side of the camera and on the surrounding of the shutter button. The AF/AE lock button moves to the right on the thumb rest, making it quicker to lock exposure/focus. The AF/MF switch is now being upgraded with the option of selecting AFC too.

       

Function Buttons

There are plenty of new function buttons; two on the top, near the record button and on top of the control dial, one besides the LVF button, and one on the front side just beside the lens on the right side near the grip. These new function buttons provide a lot of customization options for the GX8. You got a total of 13 function buttons, 8 of them are physical buttons, and 4 of them are dedicated function buttons; that's a lot of buttons!!
     

Screen and EVF

The screen is as big as the one in the GX7 but with less border, so it's somehow displaying a slightly bigger image. It has good color, it's very sharp, and it's very good for chimping and to check for mis-focus or motion blur. The EVF is so much bigger than the one in the GX7, you can fit the GX7's viewfinder inside the GX8! It's definitely one of the best EVF in the market now, surpassing the comfort and reliability of an OVF for sure! It doesn't show any smearing artifact whatsoever, and it's bright and contrasty too! It's definitely as big or even bigger than the viewfinder of full-frame DSLRs.
   

Do I use the tilting EVF?

Yes. It's been very useful for me especially when I'm shooting in a small room at difficult angles. It's been a life-saving feature especially when there's glare in the room caused by sunlight through the windows, which happens many times during photo/video sessions. Many people don't need it, but now that I've used it on the GX7 and GX8 quite frequently, it is now an indispensable feature for me.

Looks

My GX8 comes in black, and the finish on it is very high-end. The faux leather on the grip definitely helps with the firmer handling but on the same time also makes it looks luxurious. The matte metallic finish on the rest of the body makes the camera look very tough and strong, especially with the all black finish. Combined with the rangefinder form-factor, it's the best looking mirrorless camera to date.
   
Aesthetic wise, there's so little logo on this camera, it doesn't even say GX8 on any noticeable sides! You'll have to reach the bottom side of the GX8 to finally be able to see a small GX8 text with the serial number on it. This is a wise decision in my opinion; less branding attracts less attention, the last thing you want to happen is to gain attention while shooting of course!
   
The 12-35mm fits perfectly onto the GX8.
     

Performance Report

The GX8 is a mighty camera designed to be a high end mirrorless camera. With the GX8, I think Panasonic has done a good job on making a statement that they are very serious in the development of their Lumix cameras. Here are my findings.

       

Autofocus

Autofocus is improved on the GX8. It never miss-focuses even in low light when compared to the GX7. The GX7 does well in all condition, but sometimes it miss-focuses my 12-35mm f2.8 on low light and it happened a few times during a critical shoot. The slight increase of speed isn't much and the GX7 is already faster than most DSLRs, but for me it's definitely helping a lot. Even a millisecond could make or break a shot! I'm definitely spoiled by the fast auto-focus speed of the GX7!
     
The continuous auto focus is also much more accurate in the GX8 compared to the GX7. The GX7's continuous auto focus hunts a lot and it's almost unusable in many condition. The GX8 tracks the focus well and it continues to adjust the focus precisely, and it's now very usable in critical shooting scenarios. Not perfect yet though, you'll still get miss-focused shots but not as much as with the GX7. Overall, I'm very impressed with the DFD auto-focus technology that's being implemented in the GX8, it really works!

         

Burst Shooting

The burst rate got raised significantly from 5FPS to 8FPS RAW capture, and the buffer actually can hold 32 RAW images with a regular class 10 SDHC card before it slows down. If you use the electronic shutter, the burst rate will increase to 9FPS. I haven't tried the JPG, but I got a feeling that it can shoot hundreds of JPGs before the buffer fills up. Yeah, I know. Holy. Forking. Shirt.
   
Update: Just tried JPG burst shooting on Fine JPG size, the buffer can hold 85 pictures before it slows down.
   
If that's not enough, there's a 30FPS 8MP 4K burst video-to-photo mode that you can activate through the drive button. It will take 8MP JPGs only, no RAW. It will give you a frame-by-frame video capture and you can select one of the frames that you want to use as the single picture.
   
Update: Keep in mind that the 4K Photo mode is actually a video, so you can capture until the memory runs out or until you hit the 29 minute limit mark. For every second, you will get 30 frames.
   
If that doesn't blow your mind yet, there's a Super High 40FPS electronic-shutter JPG burst that you can activate manually through the picture quality setting and the drive button. You'll get 120 images for every single burst. Your images will look like a hi-def video when you scroll through them, and you can select as many as you want. This is actually nothing new, as the GX7 already has this, but the GX8 is able to capture more images and it doesn't have to be in medium JPEG.
   
I personally haven't tried the bulb mode, so I will have to get back to you on that later. But I have tried the long exposure shooting using the GX8 and I can say that it has slightly less noise compared to the GX7! Hooray!
   
The RAW burst rate improvement on the GX8 is a crucial factor that made me purchased it. The new improved burst rate will help me during event photography to capture moments without having to worry about buffer limitation or slow burst speed. The GX7 does have a nice enough 5FPS, but I missed a few shots because it's too slow for event photography.

       

Stabilization

Now onto the stabilization. The new Dual IS works really well. I upgraded the firmware on my 12-35mm as well as the 14-140 and both got significantly more stable especially on the longer end of the focal length range. As with the 14-140, I can get down to 1/8 second sharp images at 140mm. With the 12-35mm, I can go down to 1/4 second and still get a sharp image. Heck, I just tried again and I got a sharp image at 1/2 sec with the 12-35 at 35mm. Again. Holy. Parking. Sheep.
   
But keep in mind, the Dual IS only works with compatible lenses. The IBIS on the GX8 by itself without the Dual IS mode also works wonderfully. It's definitely a little bit better than the GX7, but definitely not by much.

       

Video

The video just got upgraded significantly with the introduction of 4K. There also Cine-V and Cine-D profiles for pro-level footage that can record some extra dynamic range by reducing the overall contrast, so that you can have more flexibility in the post by color grading your footage manually. Granted, they are not V-log, S-log, or other high-end cinematic flat profile, but they are enough for what I need for my video works. The GX7, while it also shoots great video, it doesn't have these profiles, and sometimes I'm shooting at really difficult and contrasty lighting scene and I need the flexibility to be able to recover more dynamic range from my footages. On the side note, I don't really care too much about 4K right now, but it's nice to have the option in the GX8. I might going to learn to shoot with 4K and downscale the footage to 1080p in the future, and see if it makes a significant difference to my video shots. Overall, the new added video features are very welcomed in the GX8, and even if the GX8 doesn't go totally pro like a GH4 with a more serious video options, these features are still overkill enough for most people.
   
There's an introduction of E-Stabilizer for the video that is only compatible with compatible Panasonic lenses that will help smooth the motion during recording. It's using digital manipulation on the sensor, so it's not the most ideal solution, but it works and I don't see any drawbacks of using this E-Stabilizer on my footages. It's definitely better than applying Stabilization in the post production for sure. Sadly, it doesn't work with non compatible Panasonic lenses. Also it's kinda weird, the stabilization menu is in the "Photo" menu; if you're in the "Manual Video" mode, you'll have to change the mode dial to any picture mode (M, A, S, P) to be able to access the E-Stabilizer menu, which is weird.
   
Update: I've tested the video aspect of the GX8 more extensively these past few days and there are some things that I noticed. First, the 4K video is cropped heavily, I think it's now doing at least 1.3x crop on top of the original crop factor of the GX8, so that's like 2.3x crop factor compared to a 35mm full frame sensor. This isn't bugging me so much because I don't always do wide-end video shooting all the time. Also, the added crop factor actually combats moire, aliasing, and noise in less than ideal lighting condition because it actually makes the pixels in the sensor "appear bigger" relative to the actual sensor read-out size.
     
It goes without saying that the 4K footages themselves are very good. The 100MB/sec 24/25fps MP4 files are just gorgeous and the extra details being recorded compared to the details in regular 1080p footage are just really more noticeable. Downsample that 4K clip down to 1080p, and you'll still have that extra detail being shown, even in smaller resolution. The regular 1080p modes are available in both AVCHD or MP4 with up to 28MB/sec bitrate in 24/25/50fps, and they are just as good as the GX7's 1080p. But with the new Cine-D and Cine-V profile, it should be able to hold more dynamic range compared to the flattened Standard/Neutral profile, which is the only video profile with the highest dynamic range on the GX7.
     
Here's a sample video that I made, recorded in 4K, downsampled to 1080p:
 

      

Flash

The GX8 doesn't have a built in flash, but I don't care anymore. I used off camera flashes these days, the built in flash on the GX7 is simply no longer up to the task. If built in flash is important for you, definitely go with the GX7.
     
Flash sync speed? 1/250 works just fine, 1/320 is a little dodgy already. I really wish Panasonic could implement a built-in digital ND of some sort for the next iteration of the GX series... or a leaf shutter, please (I don't think it's mechanically possible to implement in the body though). But 1/250 is good enough, I can live with that. I have my 4 stop ND filter anyway, let's have a good excuse to justify the cost of buying that filter, shall we?
     
Update: I just re-tested the sync speed again with my YongNuo YN510EX, and I can still get to sync the flash at 1/320. I tried 1/400, there's a subtle black bar on the upper part of the image, but it's not yet fatal. However, 1/500 is unusable and anything up from there is pretty much just black bar across the whole image.

       

Battery Life

I haven't got any issue with the battery life. I'm sensing that it's slightly longer than the GX7 but I'll have to test it further to clarify it. The battery is definitely bigger than the GX7's battery, so I'm hoping it could last longer than the GX7. It's definitely gonna last very long if you shoot with electronic shutter.
 
Update: I just tested the battery life of the GX8 on a very demanding shooting session during a concert last night. I shot around 1800 photos using the GX8, the first 1000 photos were using electronic shutter, while the rest used the regular mechanical shutter. The shooting session lasted for about 5 hours, and the battery indicator only showed a single drop of bar. O. M. G!
 

GX8 and 100-300mm.
      

Update: RAW to JPG in Camera

This is a feature that I use more and more everytime I pick up the GX8. I can now take all RAW pictures and if I need to transfer it to my phone, I can just export that picture into JPG using a feature built in the menu in camera, so I don't need to specifically shoot JPG for the picture that I want to send to my phone. This feature isn't available with the GX7, with the GX7 you have to shoot JPG if you want to send the picture to your phone.
    

Performance Cons of the GX8

Some minor hiccups are present: There's still that LCD-to-viewfinder switch delay, it's a bit shorter than the same delay on the GX7, but it's still too long in my opinion.
   
There's still that "Jello effect" due to the rolling shutter when you are shooting stills using the electronic shutter, but the rolling shutter is less apparent in video.
   
There's a weird thing going on with the exposure locking mechanism that I just recently encountered, but also happens in the GX7. With my Olympus E-PL6, I can just lock the focus and the LCD preview exposure as well as the real metering exposure will lock together with the focus lock and when you press the shutter you'll get a spot-on image that looks like the locked preview exposure just before you shoot it. But with the GX8, the LCD preview exposure doesn't lock although the metering locks in.
   
To temporarily combat this weird exposure thing, I have to manually AE lock the metering exposure to trigger the LCD preview exposure to lock itself by pressing the AF/AE button that I assigned for AE lock. I'm guessing this is just a menu option that I couldn't find yet.
   
There's also another minor "lack of option" that hasn't been corrected that's also present on the GX7. It's the bracketing mode. It works well on burst mode, but there's no real way to shoot burst bracketing mode with a timer that will automatically shoot the exposures without holding down the button or clicking it one by one. Sure, I can use the shutter delay option, but it will still require me to click the shutter one by one after each exposure is done, and for long exposure work it's very potential to cause mis-aligned exposures or ghosting. The only workaround right now is to use remote shutter, or to use your smartphone as a remote via wifi.
   
The GX8 is a bit bigger than the GX7, but not by much.
   

Image Quality

Okay, now this is the most interesting part of all the things on the GX8. The brand new 20MP sensor. You can read all the technical things on how big you can get more resolution out of it, etc. But in my opinion, it's not that much of an improvement. Here are my findings.

      

High ISO

So far, on the base ISO, the GX7 can match the GX8 perfectly. At high ISO, around 1600 or so, the GX8 provides a slight advantage of less noise, but it's very very insignificant and only noticeable at 100% pixel peeping level. ISO 3200 on GX8 is still manageable, it does keep slightly more detail when compared to the GX7.

      

Dynamic Range

The extra dynamic range isn't really noticeable in my opinion. But it's safe to say that I can pull 2 stops of blown highlight from an image without making it look fake. I can also pull the shadow at around 2 to 2.5 stops without adding too much noise. Not too mindblowing, the GX7 performs as good on the shadow pulling department with just a slight less advantage on the highlight pulling department. Definitely not a huge difference between GX8 and GX7. But keep in mind, the GX8 has slightly more pixels, so it's safe to say that if you downsize the resolution to match the GX7, the GX8 will show superiority in the dynamic range department. For a person like me who downsize all my pictures to fit 3840 x 3840 pixels, this is simply a minor but still considerable advantage.

      

Issues: Shutter Shock

Shutter shock is still present in the GX8, especially when you are using the Panasonic 14-140mm f3.5-5.6 on 140mm. I've compared side by side images shot at 140mm with electronic shutter and with mechanical shutter, all at 1/100 of a second. The ones with e-shutter is sharper, and there are some motion blur on the mechanical shutter. But keep in mind that it's a bit better compared to the GX7's shutter shock. The 140mm mechanical shutter images from the GX7 is ever-so-slightly more blurry in my opinion.

      

Update: Electronic Shutter

I compared my GX8 E-shutter images with the GX7 E-shutter images, and it seemed that finally the banding artifact that was present on GX7 E-shutter images is now gone on the GX8. Shooting under any lighting condition will not generate banding artifact. So the only drawback when you are shooting with the E-shutter on GX8 is the rolling shutter effect. This is quite a huge bonus for me, especially because I prefer to shoot using E-shutter all the time.
    

Overall Image Quality

In my opinion, Panasonic had done an excellent job on the GX8 by balancing the higher 20MP resolution with more advanced image processing so that the extra resolution doesn't cause problems especially in the noise department at high ISO or long exposure. I think it's safe to conclude that the image quality produced by the GX8 is definitely improving, but not by much.
   
Overall, this is not a deal breaker for me, an improvement is still an improvement, and no matter how small the improvement is, it can still cause a potential improvement in the overall IQ on the right application. But since the headline of the news are "20MP OMG HIGH RESOLUTION FTW", don't get sucked by it. We photographers, amateurs and professionals alike, shouldn't be the type of people that easily acknowledge all the marketing hype that the manufacturers try to tell. Your camera purchase decision should be based on the requirement of your photography, since your camera will degrade its value over time. I have my reasons for purchasing the GX8 so I don't just buy it because it's a cool new camera or whatsoever.
   
So now you might ask, why increase it to 20MP instead of developing revolutionary technology at 16MP? In my opinion, the simple answer is because of the competition. Mega pixel race isn't dead yet, and the new camera offerings from Canon and Sony just went crazy with the mega pixel count. There's the Canon 5DS and 5DS-R that goes up to 50MP(jeez, that's medium format's territory for Pete's sake!!) and the brand new Sony Alpha A7R Mark II that goes up to 42MP; both of them are full frame cameras and they offer fantastic image quality despite of the high mega pixel count. MFT has been 16MP for quite a few years, and it's time to show the world that MFT can accommodate more megapixels.
   
Yeah, the extra 4 MP isn't much, and compared with the High-Res mode of the Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II, which is 40MP in JPEG or 60MP in RAW, it just doesn't mean anything. But as far as I know, the lenses in Micro Four Thirds format are as sharp as any professional chef's sashimi knife, as proved by the images from the High-Res mode on the E-M5 Mark II. They could handle high megapixels with no problem, and unlike full frame lenses, MFT lenses don't need so much glass to cover so much sensor area so they can have better edge-to-edge sharpness and excellent center sharpness. With the addition of a small but meaningful 4MP in the resolution, we can slowly further unlock the true potential of the MFT lenses and potentially lurking new MFT users who need the extra MP boost.
   

   

Where the GX7 Wins?

I mentioned many months ago that the Panasonic GX7 is the right camera for me. It has the features that many cameras on the same price range don't have, and the overall form factor of it really suits my photography needs. After using it for a full year, it is definitely the best camera that I've ever owned, and it can outperform some of the high end cameras that I've tried in the past.
   
I bought the GX8 not to replace the GX7. The GX7 will stay, the Olympus E-PL6 of mine will also stay, for a very long time for sure. The GX8 simply has more features that I need and want, but it also has some limitation compared to the GX7. So it feels like the GX8 isn't the successor or the replacement of GX7, but rather a totally different camera built from the ground up but being placed in the same GX line. So there's still some advantages that the GX7 has that the GX8 doesn't have. Here are some of what I found:
   
The GX7 has the non-swivel tilt-only LCD screen that is actually more useful for street shooting than the swivel screen of the GX8. The swivel screen of the GX8 works really well for video, and it works equally wonderfully when shooting stills at weird angles too, but you have to take it out from its housing to start swiveling the angle, and when it's out from its housing, it's on the side of the camera and it'll be very noticeable when you're shooting. The GX7's LCD stays behind the camera while you mess with the tilting angle, and it's much more inconspicuous.
   
The GX7 is much easier to hold and operate with one hand, especially with the assignable exposure compensation button on the rear. Everything is easy to press with your thumb and doesn't require a lot of thumb-travel to get to the button that you need. The GX8 can also be operated with just one hand but it's not as comfortable to access the buttons with your thumb. The dedicated exposure dial on the GX8 is also very nice, but sometimes it requires me to hold the camera with my left hand so that I can access the exposure dial easier.
   
The image quality, once again as I already discussed about it in the above, aren't too different between the GX7 and GX8. This means that the quality of the GX7 pictures won't go obsolete in the near future. If you already have a GX7, definitely don't upgrade to GX8 just for the increase of image quality.
   
GX8 holds the 12-35mm f2.8, while the GX7 holds the 75mm f1.8. The perfect dual body setup.
   

How Should I Setup My Function Buttons?

You may just bought yourself a brand new GX8 and now you're confused as hell trying to figure out what functions do you want to use on your GX8. Fear not, I can give you my example of the usage of the function buttons!
   
(Fn Button Set Menu is on the Custom Menu, page 7/9)
Fn1  : Touch AE
Fn2  : Q. Menu
Fn3  : Metering Mode
Fn4  : AF-On
Fn5  : 1 Shot RAW+JPG
Fn6  : Electronic Shutter
Fn7  : Preview
Fn8  : Wifi
Fn9  : Quality
Fn10: Digital Zoom (JPG only, I use it to shoot moon pictures)
Fn11: Unused, whatever you want
Fn12: Unused, whatever you want
Fn13: Focus Area Set
   
With this setup, you can lock exposure, and change focus point easily, just by pressing Fn1 and Fn13, which are always near your index finger. Metering mode and Back Button AF can be accessed using your thumb on the bottom right buttons. Preview button is always accessible using your middle finger. Electronic shutter doesn't need to be switched on very quickly, so it's a bit far on the LVF button and can be accessed using your left hand's finger. Same with one shot RAW+JPG, it's just in case you want to wifi the picture to your smartphone and Instagram it quickly.
   
Update: It seemed that there's a built in RAW editing in the GX8. That means you don't need the RAW+JPG option, simply just export your RAW to a separate JPG file using the "RAW Conversion" option inside the camera's menu. It's not as extensive as a dedicated RAW converter program on your computer, but it does the job very well for such a quick enhancement.
   

How Do I Set My Custom Menu?

On the Custom Menu, I set the following on my GX8.
   

Page 1/9

AF/AE Lock: AE Lock
AF/AE Lock Hold: On
Shutter AF: On
   

Page 2/9

Half Press Release: Off
Quick AF: Off
Eye Sensor AF: Off
Pinpoint AF Time: Mid
Pinpoint AF Display: PIP
     

Page 3/9

AF Assist Lamp: Off
Direct Focus Area: Off
Focus/Release Priority: Off
AF+MF: Off
MF Assist: Focus
   

Page 4/9

MF Assist Display: PIP
MF Guide: On
Peaking: On, Detect Level: High
Histogram: On, and then I moved it to the bottom left of the Rec screen
Guide Line: Rule of Thirds
   

Page 5/9

Center marker: Off
Highlight: Off
Zebra Pattern: Off
Monochrome LV: Off
Constant Preview: Off
   

Page 6/9

Expo meter: On
LVF Disp Style: Full Screen
Monitor Disp Style: Full Screen
Monitor Info Display: On
Rec Area: Still Camera
   

Page 7/9

Remaining Display: Camera and Burst
Auto Review: One Second
Q Menu: Preset
Dial Set: Default
   

Page 8/9

Video Button: On
Eye Sensor Sensitivity: Low
Touch Settings: Touch Screen: On, Touch Tab: On, Touch AF: Off, Touch Pad AF: Offset.
Touch Scroll: L
   

Page 9/9

Menu Guide: On
Shoot w/o Lens: On
   
This is my personal preference and you're welcomed to try my settings. Basically, the main highlight of this setup is that I can't touch/focus on the LCD to avoid unwanted LCD touch, unless I'm using the Fn button to AF Touch. However, in the viewfinder, I can just use the screen sort of like a laptop's touchpad to set the focus. Other than that, the AF/AE button is now working only to lock the AE, the overall camera's feedback is more stealthy, and the histogram is now available on both the LCD and viewfinder.
   

Conclusion

The Panasonic GX8 is definitely my new "perfect" camera. It's not 100% perfect, but it's definitely the missing puzzle piece of my photography arsenal that I've been searching for more than a year. The GX7 is still here with me, the E-PL6 is also still with me too. The GX8 is definitely a great camera, but it's not by any means a replacement for the GX7. Instead, it now lives together with the GX7 and provided me with functionality that's not available in the GX7, while the GX7 also lives together with the GX8 to cover what the GX8 can't do. The E-PL6 is now acting as a compact camera that I can always carry where the GX7 and GX8 can't fit.  Each of my 3 cameras now serve three different purposes in my photography toolbox.
     
The GX8 is a monster of camera that can almost do anything that I want. It has all the features that I need, sometimes I feel like it's a pro camera like the GH4 but in a smaller form. Keep in mind, although the headline of the GX8 is the 20MP sensor, you shouldn't buy the GX8 simply because of the image quality by itself. Instead, judge all the factors in the GX8 and determine for yourself if it's the right addition for your photograph arsenal. Please note that the GX7 is also now cheaper than ever, and if you don't need many of the features in the GX8 and just want a small compact mirrorless with a lot of punch, it's still a good buy for the money.
     
In summary:
GX8 Pros
- New sensor improved the image quality in almost all aspects.
- Heftier body with more substantial and comfortable grip.
- More function buttons.
- Manual mode with auto ISO capability.
- Huge EVF.
- Swivel screen, perfect for video and more flexibility for shooting at tough angles.
- Weather sealing.
- 4K UHD video.
- Cine D and Cine V profiles for video.
- RAW to JPG in camera.
- Unlimited video record time.
- E-shutter doesn't produce weird banding anymore.
- Improved buffer for continuous shooting, and improved continuous shooting speed.
- Slightly better continuous AF compared to GX7.
- Blazing fast single AF that works in low light, a bit better than the GX7.
- 2.5mm mic jack.
- Exposure compensation dial.
- Good IBIS, dual IBIS works well on select lenses.
   
GX8 Cons
- Bigger, heavier body.
- Swivel screen is not the most ideal for shoot-from-the-hip street photography.
- Image quality improved only ever-so-slightly, but still good enough.
- 1080p video bitrate and quality not improved from GX7.
- Shutter shock is still present.
- No headphone jack, 2.5mm mic jack isn't ideal.
- No built in flash, but honestly I don't need it.
- Expensive launch price.
     
Where GX7 Wins
- Smaller, lighter, compact body.
- Tiltable screen, perfect for shoot-from-the-hip street photography.
- Very straight-forward and quick operation.
- Smaller, but still substantial grip to handle medium-sized MFT lenses.
- Couples nicely with MFT primes.
- More inconspicuous.
- Cheaper price.
     

Sample Pictures

All of these images were taken using the Panasonic 12-35mm f/2.8
    
Off camera flash, one gelled behind the flowers, one in front of the flowers.
   
Blended long exposure images, testing the bracket mode of the GX8.
   
Geetar picture is mandatory for every new photo gear.
   
New selfie, thanks to the swivel screen. Off camera flash, one gridded behind me.
   
Off camera flash, one behind the subject, gelled with some red gel.
     
Single long exposure, ND filtered image. Look at how much shadow and highlight that I can recover.
   
I hope this post helps! I will update this post with more pictures taken with the GX8 in the future. Cheers and God bless you :)

Sunday, September 27, 2015

The Perfect Camera: Revisited

Hey guys, it's September 2015 and the world of camera just got exploded with the coming of a lot of new generation cameras that are extremely good. Remember last year when I talked about "The Perfect Camera"? Good news, some of the recent releases of new cameras met those requirements.

Two Potential Perfect Camera

Yes, I have two cameras on my radar right now that almost qualify for my perfect camera: PANASONIC GX8 and OLYMPUS E-M5 Mark II. Actually there is one more that just got a firmware update, the OLYMPUS E-M1. So that's three cameras.

So here's the list along with the cameras that match the requirements for each list

- compact rangefinder style body - GX8 and EM5II

- built in EVF - GX8, EM5II, and EM1
- manual controls, assignable dual control wheels, dedicated ISO button, function buttons - GX8, EM5II, EM1
- standard hotshoe - GX8, EM5II, EM1
- built in bounce-able pop-up flash - None
- assignable custom program modes - GX8
swiveling screen like the GH4 - GX8, EM5II
- generous grip with front-positioned shutter button - GX8, EM5II with accessories, EM1
- it must not be bigger than the GX7 - EM5II
- vertical grip option - EM5II, EM1
16MP Micro Four Thirds minimum - GX8, EM5II, EM1
wifi - GX8, EM5II, EM1
super control panel like in the E-PL6 - GX8 Q menu, EM5II, EM1
- improved ISO performance - GX8, EM5II
- improved dynamic range - GX8, EM5II
video quality as good as the GX7 minimum - GX8, EM5II
- good in body stablizier - GX8, EM5II, EM1
- some degree of weather sealing - GX8, EM5II, EM1
- good tracking auto focus - GX8, EM1
- high fps mechanical shutter burst with at least 20 shot buffer RAW - GX8, EM1
- accurate auto metering and auto white balance - GX8, EM5II, EM1
- good color rendition - EM5II, EM1
- highly visible focus peaking - GX8, EM5II
in camera RAW editing - GX8, EM5II, EM1
- built in white balance compensation - GX8


Now, Let's Vote!

GX8: 21
EM5II: 20
EM1: 15

So, my new perfect camera is going to be the new Panasonic GX8. I can't wait until I can get my hands on it! It is actually bigger than my GX7, can't take optional grip, doesn't have nice colors like the Olympus, and it doesn't have pop up flash. But I think I can live without those features!

That's it for now. Thanks for reading :)

Saturday, August 15, 2015

The Primest of the Primes: Panasonic Lumix 20mm f/1.7 Mark II

Important Update: I tested this lens with the Panasonic GX7 and I must say that the autofocus improved significantly. It no longer hunts for focus, and it also snaps very quickly, just like the rest of my MFT lenses. So it's safe to conclude that the use of this lens with older body such as the E-PL6 or anything before that may cause slow autofocus speed.
 

Hello all! Sorry for the lack of posts but with so much travelling and a lot of work recently it's kinda difficult for me to make time to write here. I do appreciate all of you who regularly visit this blog.

My E-PL6 with the 20mm, surrounded by the other lenses that I usually attach to it.
Today I want to talk about the stuff of the legend: Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 Mark II. It's the second generation of the lens that has achieved cult status in Micro Four Thirds world. Delivering a field of view equivalent to 40mm in full frame, it is one of the most versatile lens for street photography as well as general walk-around all purpose prime lens.

Mounted on the E-PL6.
I bought it as a substitute for three of my lenses: Olympus 17mm f2.8, Olympus 17mm f1.8, and Olympus 25mm f1.8. All three of these lenses are fantastic, but sometimes I just wish they are blended together as a single lens rather than three separate lenses. I prefer a lens with the compactness of 17mm f2.8, but with the field of view that could mimic both 17mm and 25mm, with a fast aperture of at least f1.8. Voila, this lens showed up on an online camera shop, and I took the plunge and bought it immediately.

The Good Stuff?

It's very compact and easy to carry around!
It's extremely sharp! Holy, parking, cow! I don't pixel peep too often on my images, but even looking at normal viewing zoom, this lens is noticeably sharper than most of the lenses in my collection. I didn't expect a lens of this size and price to outperform many of my lenses, but it did and it just blew my mind away!

Shoot it at f1.7 and it's very sharp, stop it down a bit to f1.8 and the sharpness will improve. To get even sharper result on the lens, stop it down to at least f2. F2.8 will give you the optimum center sharpness quality, and f4 or f5.6 will give you excellent sharpness all across the frame. Diffraction starts to kick in at f8 and above, so avoid those aperture except if you really must have sufficient depth of field. I rarely stop down this lens and f1.7 never really gives me any sharpness issue.

Speaking of image quality, this lens also has a very good contrast. It is able to deliver images with deeper tone and you can really notice it without even pixel peeping. It's also quite resistant to flare and works really well in most lighting scenarios to generate good images, provided that you are shooting with adequate proper techniques.

It's also small, compact, and as small as the 17mm f2.8. Combined with smaller Micro Four Thirds bodies like my E-PL6, it now fits perfectly into my short pants' large pocket. It will definitely fit into regular jacket pocket and most certainly small bags. This kind of tiny lens with high level of performance on a very small form factor like this is almost unheard of in other camera formats and mounts!


The Bad Stuff...

Obviously, as you may have heard in many other review, the autofocus of this lens is kind of slow in low light, especially when combined with previous generation of Micro Four Thirds bodies like my E-PL6. It's fast in good light though, and the trick with this lens is to really look for contrasty part of the frame and focus on that to get a lock-on in low light conditions.

There is some little audible noise when you are focusing the lens, but it's not as bad as the Olympus 17mm f2.8. So it's not as over-hyped as people had said. Maybe the first generation of this lens is louder, but I'm not sure because I've never tried the older version of this lens. There is also some rattle-snake sound coming out in the audio when you are doing video using this lens, and many had said that it's cross brand compatibility issue that happens when you use Oly body like my E-PL6 with Pana lens. However, it also happened with my Olympus 17mm f1.8, so I think it's the problem that should be associated with the body itself, not with the lens.

Some people also said that they see some banding appearing on their images when they shoot this lens on an Olympus body at high ISO(above 800). I shot mine a lot on E-PL6 at ISO 1600 and 3200, and I didn't find any problem with banding whatsoever, I just couldn't find it in my images. That could be the problem of the older version of this lens that got fixed with this version of the lens. Or maybe my eyes aren't simply not sensitive enough to notice it.

To Sum It Up

The sweet story of this lens doesn't come up perfectly fine all the time. The autofocus mainly got me a bit bummed a few times as I have to wait for the lens to hunt the focus back and forth a few times or even sometimes I have to re-focus the lens multiple times to get the correct lock-on focus. But besides that, this is the lens is focusing as fast as the others in good light.

Many people complained about 20mm being not wide enough as they are used to 17mm(35mm equivalent) field of view. It's true, there is a noticeable difference of field of view between 17mm and 20mm and it's a significant difference that could make or break a shot. I personally always found the 17mm to be too wide most of the time so the 20mm really solves that problem, but you may feel different about it. So make sure you try to get the feel of 20mm before you make your decision.

So, is this lens able to substitute those three lenses as I mentioned before? Partially, yes. My 17mm f2.8 is now packed in its original box and ready to be sold soon. My 17mm f1.8 and 25mm f1.8 hasn't been used for a month since I use this lens. But I'm not ready to sell those primes yet as both the 17mm and 25mm f1.8 are very fast when it comes to focus speed, and my 20mm will never be able to rival those lens. The speed difference will matter the most when it comes to street photography under less than ideal light and in that kind of environment, I will want to rely on either my 17mm or 25mm instead of 20mm; but for anything else that doesn't require fast focusing, the 20mm will always be my choice.

See some of my sample images taken with this lens:

This is the field of view of 20mm. It could mimic either 17mm or 25mm.

See those details in the meat, my goodness it's just so sharp!

It's not wide enough, but so is the regular 17mm.

An attempt to get a street photo using this lens. Luckily the light is good so it doesn't hunt focus.

It's very good for general purpose walk-around lens.

Works well enough in contrasty scene.

This is the 20mm working to mimic the 17mm's wideness.

This is the kind of image that I am after with this lens.
I use it in studio environment too, and I love how flexible it is!
Environmental portrait with this lens is fantastic!

I don't know why, but I tend to use this lens for food photo

Let me know if you see some banding in this image. This was shot at very high ISO.


This was also shot at a very high ISO, I didn't notice any banding here.

I hope this post will help you to determine whether the 20mm f1.7 Mark II is the right lens for you or not. Also consider the older version of this lens if you decide that 20mm is the right lens for you as it is cheaper than the Mark II version. Until next post, cheers and God bless you :)

Important Update: I successfully managed to get the banding issue to appear on my shots! Horay! It's actually happening only and only when you take a picture in within just a few seconds, just after you coupled this lens with the camera and turning it on right away right after the coupling. The first few seconds of the shots after I coupled this lens with the camera finally showed some bands. But when you keep this lens on the body for so long without changing lens, the banding issue disappears again, even if you quickly turn on the camera and shoot right away.